The dory chines have been the most challenging part of the build so far. The building manual advises two reliable methods and strongly advises not to use another third unadvisable method. I used the strongly advised not to use method. Let me unpack that: Method 1 is to cut notches for the chines in the molds and install the chines when the plywood sides have been installed (Slipping the chines between the in-situ plywood and molds). Method 2 is not to use chines logs at all, simply use the stitch and glue method after the hull has been turned upright and tape the chines from the inside with double bias fiberglass tape and then cove the joint with thickened resin.
I cut the notches for the chine logs into the molds and tried to dry fit the three quarter by one and three quarter inch chines onto the frames. I found it impossible as the chines had to bend in two different directions - if I had forced the issue with G-clamps the chine logs would have broken. I don't know the nature of the wood that Harold 'Dynamite' Payson used as described in his manual but it must have been of a very soft and cooperative nature.
My work around was to cut the chines vertically and laminate them into place on the molds. I found even this a bit of a mission to get the chines to sit correctly and flush with the sides of the molds and bent correctly to the modest rocker of the dory's bottom shape.
If I was to build again I would cut each chine vertically (or horizontally) into three or even four pieces and laminate them together. Other builders of this dory may have had easy experiences with the chines but this hasn't been my experience.
Interestingly the issues with the chines is actually a metaphor for all boat building. It is all about problem solving, adaptation and finding work arounds if required. Also if (like my situation) you are working pretty much with only hand tools in a confined space (no band saw, table saw, etc) different ways of working have to be found.
These two photos (directly above and below) show some early dry fitting of the plywood side panels before the chines were laminated.
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The next stage in the build is to glue and nail the side panels to the laminated and correctly beveled chines, stem and transom. I am hoping that when it comes time to fit the gunwales to the sheer line it will be a easier operation than the chines have been - time will tell!
2 comments:
HI Alden, looks like the build is coming on well, be interested to hear how she rows and handles - the GD was on eof the designs I considered and rejected when I built Gato
regards
Max
Hi Max, The vast majority of the comments I have read about the GGull have been positive. The small number of negatives have been that it's a one-person only rowing boat and that it can be a bit tippy when you first get into it to row - not unlike a kayak. But all boats are a compromise in some ways and I'm suspending my judgement until she's in the water and I can assess whether it was a good choice of dory design.
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