I was surprised that I had to shim the bottom of the building frame at both ends to get it absolutely level. Whatever you build on, don't assume that (in this case) a concrete floor is level. In the background to the left are the molds ready for placement on the building frame.
I attached the seven molds to crossbeams on top of the building frame. In retrospect I should have made the molds out of three quarter inch or one inch plywood rather than five eighths of an inch which has tended to flex and buckle a little bit for no apparent reason (it's not under any tension at this stage) - so I have had to cross brace some of the molds that have distorted a little bit. However, once I did the bracing, all the molds are now square and fair and ready to go.
A long flexible fairing batten was used to pick up the plotted marking points on the plywood. The black square is my foam rubber kneeling cushion which saved my knees. The two sheets of 8 x 4-foot 6mm (quarter inch) Gaboon plywood are resting on two sheets of thick construction ply (see next photo) which gave me something to nail the Gaboon to while I was doing the drafting.
Each side panel of the dory is in two parts. I cut each of the part panels out with a jigsaw and faired them up with a small hand plane. I then glued and screwed the two parts of each paneltogether with a 6mm, 4-inch wide plywood cleat. I then modified (reduced by 6mm) the central mold on each side where the cleats will lie when the side panels are attached.
The top of the stem is held in place by a large bolt onto the building frame and is awaiting beveling, which I did with a hand plane, checking the bevel regularly with the fairing batten pictured.
The transom was as tricky to align as the stem, but once in place it provides, in tandem with the stem, a strong anchor for the bending and fitting of the chines and side panels.
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