Tuesday, April 14, 2020

-- FOUR RIVERS - A PILGRIMAGE - RIVER THREE - THE RIVER BLACKWELL --


This particular journey was really a pilgrimage to Heybridge Basin which is an off shoot of the River Blackwell rather than the river itself. Heybridge Basin features often in the writings of many sailors including Maurice Griffiths whose book 'The Magic of the Swatchways' introduced many to the charm of this part of the English coast. Also the writings of Charles Stock a legendary figure in these parts (and more recently the books and videos of its new owner) with their little 16 foot gaff cutter 'Shoal Waters' have been an inspiration to many small boat sailors to explore this area.

The Basin consists of an area that is accessed through lock gates that are secured at high tide allowing the boats to float throughout the whole tide range. Boats outside the basin sit on the mud at low water. The white two storied house on the left is the lock keepers house.

 Looking back from the basin towards the lock gates and the river.



 A range of boats share this peaceful sanctuary.


 Dutch Botter type ideally suited to shoal waters around seas, lakes and rivers.

The name on this houseboat pretty much sums up the ambiance of Heybridge Basin.

 A Boat trip leaves from this quay up river to Maldon.

This interesting garden backs onto the Heybridge Basing walkway. I got a shock when I saw it for the first time - for a milli second I thought I had stumbled on an African wildlife park - nope! just another piece of Brit eccentricity that gave us Monty Pythons Flying Circus and other gems.

 'Myosotis' a Maurice Griffiths 'Tidewater' design moored in the basin.

A classic Thames barge. Before the development of the eastern railways these barges accounted for most of the transport and trade around the Thames estuary and its north eastern coast.

 The Tiptree Tea Rooms (white building in the distance) was a good place for lunch.


 Looking back towards the lock from the tearooms.

The Tiptree Tearooms toilet had a framed picture of a nice schooner - should be compulsory world wide.

Small trading barge. If you are going to sit on the mud at low tide then do it properly and sensibly just like this.

 Stebbens Boat Yard rings a bell somewhere in my subconscious memory.

 The Jolly Sailor - another picturesque watering hole and eatery.

 Much of old Britain is quaint picture postcard perfect.

 This old girl (A Bawley?) still has her flag flying. Obviously the boom wasn't going to be outdone for length by the bowsprit!

 All paths lead to somewhere to sail in my mind.

4 comments:

Dan Gurney said...

Lovely tour, Alden. Those boats look like the best, coziest hideaways imaginable. Bygone times. Thanks for sharing.

Alden Smith said...

Thanks Dan. "Coziest hideaways" is a good way of describing many of these areas. Bygone times is correct although many of the artifacts of these times such as the Thames barges have been restored - but an old way of life has gone. Modernity does push its way right up to the boundaries of the rivers, even onto the wharf buildings in some cases although often it only means a change of use. The best way to see the United Kingdom is to get off the motorways and onto the old roads.

Paul Mullings said...

It’s the River Blackwater Alden! One of my old stamping grounds in a former life.

Alden Smith said...

Paul, more than glad to be of assistance for a ride down memory lane.

These rivers and the connecting coasts are pretty special places - they have a subtle, nuanced and minimalist attraction in terms of their geography that is highly attractive.