I have not followed the building manuals advice exactly in regards to the stem, but I have followed the stem profile and the positioning of the stem relative to the building frame and mold stations. The reasons for not fully following the manual is that the plan is not clear regarding the stem and a bit confusing to me. Also I didn't want a "razor sharp" stem / cutwater, I wanted a tapered and rounded stem, which I feel is a lot more attractive. I built the taper into the stem when I was fairing the stem bevel. Doing this did alter very slightly the lay of the plywood sides but nothing of any consequence. In the photograph (above) I am laminating the first of two or possibly three laminations of a stem cap which I will round off to the taper already built into the stem.
The second stem cap lamination in place (glued, screwed with temporary screws and clamped) - and yep, a boat builder can't ever have enough clamps !
This photograph shows the thickness of the bottom panel (half inch thick) and the fastening screws at six inch centres. The 6mm side panels have also been secured with screws at four inch centers. The two different measurement systems (metric and imperial) are a function of the dory plans in imperial measurements (feet and inches) and the NZ metric system (plywood measured in millimetres). 
If you are reading this and contemplating building this dory don't be put off by my comments regarding the building manual, in all other respects the manual and its advice is excellent. Any difficulties once your shoulder is put to the wheel and a commitment made are readily solved with a little thought and patience.
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