The hull was glassed with Dynel tape using West System 105 Resin and 206 Slow Hardener. I should have applied the fairing compound 'wet on wet' or when the resin had 'tacked' off but I only found out later that this is the usual technique. This would have saved a lot of sanding and re-application of resin.
When the Dynel Tape and resin was cured it was sanded to provide a key and a light coat of resin was applied. When this had 'tacked' off West System 407 Low Density Fairing Filler was added to a mixture of the 105 and 206 until it had the consistency of peanut butter. This mixture was then used on the hull as fairing filler.
The hull now has the appearance of having been smeared with molten chocolate.
On reflection and after the huge amount of work and expense involved I think what I am doing here is a bit of 'overkill'. I should have just painted the hull after the initial light wood grain fairing with the white Epi-fill fairing compound. But having said that, I haven't used West System products before and the experience I have gained will come in extremely useful for a number of small 'Stitch and Glue' designs that I intend building in the future, so it's all good and nothings lost. The little white 7 foot P Class yacht hanging in the rafters above the starling doesn't have any Dynel tape protection on the chines and she has done well with some at times, pretty rough treatment. So I have learned two lessons here for which I am grateful and with a bit of luck and common sense I won't repeat.
While I wait for the fairing compound to set I will work on the rudder and centerboard which require a bit of attention.
I had to smile when I read the instructions on the West System Resin container which advised that the mixing and application of the resin and hardener should be done in a well ventilated space. With a cold Southerly wind howling through two sides of my carport and raindrops of a size to please Noah coursing down I had more ventilation than I knew what to do with!